The DuBois Train Show

Photo 1998 by J-E Nyström User:Janke A “Night shot” of a coffee-table Z gauge miniature railroad layout.  (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

I stopped over at the DuBois Mall today for the DuBois Train Show. Again, I enjoyed the show. It had free admission and the vendors were very pleasant and not pushy. There were a lot of great tables of displays, and a decent “Make and Take” table for the kids. I was pleasantly surprised that it has improved in so many ways.

First of all, it’s in a more reasonable site at the Mall Entrance near JCPENNEY. The space it is in is much larger, thus eliminating the problem of being all “elbows and asses” at the last show. I was not only able to move around easily to view all the tables and displays, but my wife was able to move around through the tables with my son in a stroller.

Second, there was no problem with creepy old men bugging me time and time again for donations. Last year I was asked several times by the same guy for a donation, and he refused to take “no” for an answer. This year they had a large container on a central table with a big sign asking for donations. Much better!

Third, the show seemed to have more of a “swap meet” atmosphere going on despite the fact that basically Fischell’s (a local hobby shop and obvious sponsor of the show) had the most product and vendor area taken up within the show space. Frankly, I wish that Fischell would just back off a little and allow the other vendors to have a little more freedom to sell their used collections. I mean, I can go to Fishell’s anytime to buy stuff, right? I kind of go to the Train Show to see cool displays and maybe find a cool new toy to buy from a fellow hobbyist. I saw a lot of cool stuff, but was unable to locate anything cool enough in the O scale that I use for wargaming.

Lastly, I love the idea that they were selling tickets for a raffle. I heard through the grapevine that some kid spent like $15 on raffle tickets and won an expensive train set. The kid was beaming. It obviously made his day. Honestly, this was the best part of the whole train show.

The show was enjoyable, and has improved by leaps and bounds from last year. I am looking forward to next year’s show.

A model railway based on a fictional location in the United States. (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

DUBOIS TRAIN SHOW 2012

National Model Railroad Association (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

DuBois Mall Model Train Show
Sponsored By:	Div.11, MCR, NMRA Inc.
Location:	inside DuBois Mall Rt 255 & Shaffer Rd DuBois, Pennsylvania 15801
Contact:	Rev. Bob McKay 1267 Treasure Lake DuBois, Pennsylvania 15801
	(814) 591-5415 rockvillebridge@verizon.net
Web Address:	http//www.div11-mcr-nmra.info
Show Date(s):	Saturday, May 12, 2012
Show Times:	10am to 4pm
Show Fees:	no fee
Directions: I-80 Exit 101, 1/2 mi south to first traffic light
About this show: Operating layouts, Sales, Displays, Workshops, Contests

MODEL RAILROAD SCALES

Since there is a link between the Iron Kingdoms and steam locomotives, I often read posts on the Privateer Press forums about model railroading. Most of the time the questions deal with scale and cost of materials. Most of the time the other people responding are correct. However, not always. Please refer to this link which helps describe the scales.

I have been involved in model railroading since before I was ten. So I have a little information that I can supply about the right size of model railroad models that work with WARMACHINE and HORDES miniatures.

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Take a few minutes and watch this video: Introduction by Michael Gross. Also, be aware of this website as it offers excellent information.

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The Train Approaches ...

The Big Question: SO WHAT?!

First, please understand that model railroading is a hobby all on its own. It has folks who are passionate about their hobby in the same way you love playing WARMACHINE or HORDES. So understand that model railroad models are relative to war game miniatures. They are Big Boy Toys and can easily get expensive. Second, wrap your head around the idea that model railroaders and their hobby shops are an awesome resource for the miniature wargamer. These guys tend to be good at making terrain and scenery. So they can offer tips and tricks that you don’t know or understand yet. Also, model railroad hobby shops have a great supply of tools and materials you’ll need for WARMACHINE and HORDES. So make friends with the local model railroad geeks. You might find out that they like miniature wargaming as much as you do. So find your local hobby shop, and start networking! Click this link for even more information.

What is the difference between gauge and scale?

Gauge refers to the distance between the inside edges of the running, or outside, rails on a piece of track. The most popular gauge of track in the toy train hobby is O (pronounced “oh”), which measures 1.25 inches between the running rails. Scale refers to the ratio of a miniature train’s measurements compared to the dimensions of a full-sized, or prototype, train. For example, an O scale train has a 1:48 proportion to the real thing, meaning that 1 inch on the surface of the model equals 48 inches on the surface of the prototype train. Toy train manufacturers generally have not made trains that are completely to scale because doing so might increase production costs and leave the trains unable to negotiate the sharp curves on typical layouts. Increasingly, however, firms are making trains that deserve to be called scale models. Article about Scales and Gauges.

Keep in mind that S Scale and O Scale are a little easier to find (especially on eBay) and less expensive. S and O both work just fine with WARMACHINE and HORDES models in size ratios. (Although the Black 13th might work better with OO scale models … because they are so damn tiny.) G scale is big and although it is idealistically the best to use with WARMACHINE and HORDES best the Iron Kingdom locomotives are B-I-G …  BIG! … the price is much higher and availability of G scale models can be tough depending on where you live.

MODEL RAILROAD SCALES

What should I look for in buying a model train?

Modelers should consider these elements: realism, running capabilities, and level of detail. Beyond that, you’d use the same considerations as deciding whether to buy a $1,000, a $50, or a $5 watch. Obviously, there should be more inherent quality and value in an expensive locomotive, but the mid-priced version is often an attractive and well-equipped alternative. It’s the inexplicably cheap one that warrants caution. Check out eBay. And if you just want to buy a little toy train that you can hack up, convert, and paint for playing WARMACHINE scenarios then check out your local DOLLAR STORE, DOLLAR TREE, K-MART, AND WAL-MART. Especially at Christmas time they tend to carry plastic toy trains that are an excellent scale, and right price for miniature wargamers.

What types of track are there?

Besides the obvious size differences between O and S gauge toy trains, O gauge track comes in a variety of measurements that allow hobbyists to create circles of track with different diameters and so operate trains of varying lengths and sizes. O-27 track means you can build a circle of track with a 27-inch diameter. Shorter locomotives with a few cars run best on this track. O-31, O-42, and O-54 track can be used on most average-sized layouts, while O-72 track creates the largest curves for longer locomotives and trains. Operators seeking realistic track can select from GarGraves (available in rigid sectional or “flexible” versions), the 21st Century Track system by Atlas O, and the Rite-Trax system from MTH (a modular system with pre-formed plastic roadbed).

Types of track

Where can I buy this stuff online?

Well, again, I encourage you to find local sources of model railroad supplies. You probably have a local hobby shop in your area that maybe doesn’t carry Privateer Press stuff, but does stock model railroading supplies. Go there. Introduce yourself. Meet people, and support your local hobby shop.

But beyond that, you can always check out eBay as mentioned before. Then you can shop around on the following website that I often shop:

Hobby Linc.com

Walthers Online

RAILRAMA

Train Universe

Wal-Mart

In any case, there are a couple of fun scenarios out there for WARMACHINE using model trains. Find whichever type of model train is right for you, and have some fun with it. Convert it, kitbash it, and paint it up. When you get your model done, please come into the Privateer Press forums and post the finish product. I’d love to see it.

Have a good one!

Keep rollin’ sixes.

The DuBois Train Show

NMRA

I did, in fact, visit the Train Show in the DuBois Mall.

It was presented by the Division 11 Mid Central Region National Model Railroad Association. The show was located in one of the mid-size spaces within the mall,  most recently occupied by the costume shop during the Halloweeny months. I can only imagine what the mall charged the club to rent this out. The entire space was filled to capacity, and spilled out to the mall itself with a few more tables. This was less of a show and more of a vendor space. At a convention like TempleCon or Erie Days of Games, this would be called a “Vendor Room.” It was sort of like a large sprawling indoor yard sale.

I did enjoy myself at the show, but was somewhat disappointed that it was more of a yard sale and less of a show. In something called a show, I expect speakers, presentations, and hands on activities. And yes, although it was cool that they had a “Make and Take” for the kids … I would have liked the same thing for adults like me.

The show was overall good, but the fun really only lasted about twenty minutes. Then it was time to go!

Here are my thoughts on the good and bad stuff about the DuBois Train Show:

Good Stuff:

• It was local, so I did not have to drive miles and miles to go to it.
• It had free admission into the show room.
• The club members and vendors were friendly.
• There was plenty of good deals on built and painted models in different scales.
• The local Hobby Shop was present and active in the show room.

The Bad Stuff:

• The show room was too small. It was cramped, and I felt like I was a bull in a china shop walking around in there. This sucked because the people were falling over each other, and way too close for comfort.
• Although it was free admission, I was constantly being jumped by a man at the entrance to the show room who was selling “chances” for $1 to win a train set. This was a negative because (1) he was the first person I interacted with and wouldn’t take no for an answer, and (2) he seemed to completely forget that he already asked me ten times and whenever I would walk past me he’d start again. Annoying. He’s part of the reason I left earlier that I expected.
• Not enough room for the built models being sold. There were plenty of vendors there who had boxes of built models shoved under their tables. Frankly, although I wanted to see what they had, it was too cramped and hectic in there to bother.
• The “Make and Take” tables were for kids only.
• There were no demo tables explaining hobby skills.

So that’s my reaction to the DuBois Train show. Don’t get me wrong … it was nice and everything. But next year those guys need some more space and more tables for the vendors. And come one guys, more hands on activities for us adults.

CENTRAL OHIO MODELER MEET

Image via Wikipedia

The Central Ohio Prototype Modeler Meet begins Thursday night at 8:00 pm with photos and slides. Early arrivals will dine at the ledgendary Shovel bistro across the parking lot. Friday and Saturday the event starts at 9:00 am and runs until at least 8:00 pm each day. A dinner break is set around 5:00 pm with evening movies and slides until we can no longer keep our eyes open.

Nightly slide and movie shows will feature work of noted photographers Joe Slanser, Dale DeVene, Warren Calloway, Robert Graham, and others. Clinics on a variety of prototype topics will offer ideas and techniques to further your modeling skill and knowledge. Additional event details will be posted so check for updates.

An optional cookout lunch is set for late Saturday afternoon. An extra $10.00 cost covers your all-you-can-eat meal. No advance notice or payment needed. The $10.00 can be paid when you attend the cookout.

The Marion Model Railroad Club will be open during the event. More information available HERE.

BIGGER IS BETTER?

 

Armored Train

If you spend any time in the terrain and scenery section of the Privateer Press forums, you will notice that the question of model railroading and scale in comparison to WARMACHINE miniatures comes up maybe once or twice a month. During the discussion, someone will end up saying that although O scale (1:48) fits WARMACHINE miniatures very well, they believe that G scale (1:22.5) stock is much better to make the trains tower over their miniatures. The main thing you need to understand is the purpose behind the different scales. Each individual scale has a history, purpose, and level of quality.

Model trains come in many different sizes. Some people, particularly those who have little modeling space, enjoy the extreme miniaturization of Z scale (1:220 of life size) or N scale (1:160). Others insist that only the largest scales have the size and weight to convey sufficient realism and detail. O scale (1:48) is a classic large scale with a long history; but a significant number of model railroaders today opt for an even bigger line of trains known as G scale. The letter “G” derives from “garden” railroading, referring to a charming and often toylike brand of model railroading set at 1:22.5, more than twice the size of O scale.

Garden railroading is an entirely separate pursuit from “scale” or “prototypical” modeling, which places greater emphasis on realism. To confuse matters further, G scale is just one of several gauges that share a single size of track known as #1 gauge, with rails 1-3/4 inches apart. The overall designation “large scale” includes sizes of 1:30.3, 1:22.5, 1:24, 1:29, and 1:32. Manufacturers include LGB (the European originator of G scale), Bachmann, Aristo-Craft, and USA Trains, among others.

To the untrained eye at first, the differences between these scales can be slight, but intermixing equipment from each will not create a pleasing effect due to obvious stylistic as well as size differences. In most scales – the best-selling HO scale, for instance – one can purchase equipment from any number of different manufacturers and have all of it look good and operate well together. But the large scales require more research and window shopping before one buys any trains. Sticking to just one manufacturer will ensure uniformity of equipment, but you first need to decide in exactly which scale (and which style) you wish to work, and which manufacturers serve that scale. Garden Railways, a magazine devoted solely to the large scales, is one good resource for learning about the types of equipment that are available.

Big trains are far more expensive than the mass-produced smaller scales such as HO and N. But one train with only a few cars can make a very arresting impression as it rolls through a well-planned garden route or layout. In addition to garden railways and other outdoor setups, one familiar indoor application of G scale layouts is the overhead display. Many restaurants and bars have installed a large loop of track on roadbed suspended from the ceiling, for the entertainment of their patrons.

While indoor layouts are certainly possible in G scale and the other large scales, they tend to look much less realistic than the smaller scales because the curves must be tremendously sharp just to fit a layout into the space most people have available. Indeed, long locomotives (not found in LGB trains but available from other makers) and cars can barely make it around such curves, if at all. Large outdoor or garden layouts can utilize much more space with gentler curves and satisfyingly long straightaways. Weather presents challenges in keeping the track clean and maintaining good electrical connections, but non-traditional methods of propulsion exist that can lessen the need for constant cleaning of the rails. Some enterprising hobbyists have installed radio-controlled motors in their locomotives, and there is a whole group of “live steam” modelers whose steam locomotives duplicate the operation of the full-size prototype.

And this is why, like many WARMACHINE players, many collectors of trains unite believe that indeed: “Bigger is Better.”

Coal, Water, Ashes, & Sand

One of the first things that snatched my attention when it came to the Iron Kingdoms was the aspect of trains and railroads. I remember seeing the Man O War box and saying, “What’s this game that has armored dudes jumping out of a boxcar!?”

After reading more about WARMACHINE, I realized that railroads and steam technology play a major part in the Iron Kingdoms setting.

Steam locomotives need constant maintenance, supply, and waste disposal. So along the service lines, depots were built to meet these needs in a “quick” and “efficient” manner. The expectation of a supply depot would be to hold, maintain, and store the basic materials needed to keep the trains running from point A to point B. If we ignore the complicated systems of signage, switching (including Wye and turn abouts), markings, signaling, and man power … we can focus on supply issues.

COAL: Coal burning steam engines require tender bunkers. A medium sized 32-foot tender holds about 15 tons of coal. Larger tenders could be filled to capacity at about 22 tons. Depending on the number of locomotives operating on a given track, and the distance required to travel from point A to point B, a basic supply terminal usually needs about 28 tons of coal every day for each operating steamer assuming that the locomotive was making a round trip.

That’s a lot of coal. Thank goodness for Labor Jacks, huh?

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WATER: Water is essential in the powering of steam locomotives. I read recently that it takes about 15,000 gallons of water to properly operate a steam train running under full power for a typical run from point A to point B. In Pennsylvania, rail companies required that servicing companies station a water tank every twenty miles along a given railway. Why? To avoid BOILER EXPLOSION. If you run into a problem during transition, get short on the supply of water and allow the boiler area above the firebox to boil down to nothing … then BOOM! And let’s face it … BOOM … isn’t going to make for a good day on any railroad. So the Iron Kingdoms would need a constantly supply and resupply of water throughout their lines. Also, the maintenance of watering stations would be very important. So considering that the Iron Kingdoms is constantly at war, crippling supply lines of water would be a key objective.

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ASHES: Burning coal leaves waste products including ashes, cinders, and clinkers. However, ash-pan capacities do not appear to be a readily available steam statistic. We can figure that the most basic characteristic of coal is that it leaves 10% waste when being burned for steam power. So if the basic steam locomotive supposedly needs almost 50 tons of coal every day to complete a “long round trip” and there are at least two locomotives running on each expanse of track (One for main line and one for service line) then a typical depot might be taking in about 10 tons of ash waste every day. The service lines would quickly become littered with cinder cars and ash pits. So in that case, it would make sense that a typical Iron Kingdoms mainline would need at least three different trains running at a time: one for main transport, one for supplies, and the last for disposal of waste. And the last two are just to maintain a single service station. (But again, I am making assumptions. We’ll see what NO QUARTER’S article has to say…)

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SAND: Sand is needed for a servicing station. Steam locomotives are equipped with sandboxes from which sand can be deployed to the rails to improve braking and traction in wet or icy weather. A sandbox on a large locomotive can hold up to 60 cubic feet of sand. A typical 40 foot gondola can hold about 1000 cubic feet of sand in a 50 ton load. So depending on the weather, and the need for sand, a typical depot may be filling and refilling the sand towers and sand houses repeatedly.

So the typical WARMACHINE layout featuring a depot could allow for a lot of interesting scenery. (By the way, the best sizes of Model Railroad Scenery to use is O and G. Everyone asks that, all the time, on the PP forums.)

You’ve got multiple crisscrossing tracks, including a possible Wye or a roundhouse if you’re into modelling such things. Water towers, sand towers, ash pits, and outbuildings would be a must. You could also add in some free standing gondolas or freight cars that are being used for storage or waiting for transport.

I’m looking forward to reading more about Railroads in the Iron Kingdoms.

How about you?

Feel free to leave me a comment, good or bad. Speak up.

DIRTY BUSINESS

Image via Wikipedia

Steam Technology, whether we are discussing real life 19th century Steam Locomotives or fictional Iron Kingdoms Warjack Technology, is dirty business. The smokebox of a boiler spews steam out of stacks creating a significant amount of smoke, sparks, and hot air. These engines were dirty to be around, and much more so to maintain.

You can help simulate this by weathering your models. You already know about dry brushing and ink washes, but do you know about using oil paints and chalk washes to weather your miniatures?

Oil paints are good for creating patches or streaks of rust for figures or structures. Mostly, you would use darker colors of brown and brown-orange for rust spots and black or brown-black for larger streaked areas to simulate oil leaks or spills. Once you’ve applied the base coat of colors on the model, you can take an old brush with mineral spirits to streak the rust color down the side of the model to simulate age. Again, you can either be very subtle in doing this or just go wild with it. Depends on which faction you are painting and how well maintained the model would normally be: Cryx probably maintains their ‘jacks in a different manner than Cygnar. Keep in mind that it will take about 2 days for the oil paints to dry before you can do anything else with the model. Using a hair dryer or a low heat lamp may help with drying time.

In the same manner, artist’s crayons can be used for creating cool streaking effects, but they are especially useful for highlighting raised surfaces.

I also use Micro Deco Art pens for adding details, marking eyes, and making tattoos. I learned this from a good friend of mine. This was very useful when it came to Retribution models and their tiny details. And yes, there is a bright turquoise marker for those who are interested! You could also use Sharpie markers in the same school of though.

Chalk is also a great way to weather models. You can use chalk dust to lightly sift over buildings to simulate dust and dirt from everyday life. You can also use chalk to simulate mortar lines in textured model brick walls. Rub chalk dust over the model wall allowing the dust to gather in the low places of the model. Then simply take a dry, clean brush and brush away the dust from the higher surfaces of the textured brick wall. The dust should stay in the low places to help simulate the white or gray mortar lines of the brick.

Chalk Washes work well too. Simply use sandpaper to grind down some chalk into a fine dust. Mix this with clean water. I recommend using a small 3 oz cup like the ones sold in the Paper Supplies Isle of your favorite local grocery store. Fill that about half way, and then add the chalk dust to the water. Add about the same amount as would be in a sugar packet. Mix this well. You may have to experiment, adding more or less depending on how deep you wish the color to be in the wash. Then using a clean brush, paint on the wash as you would any other wash. The wash will settle into the low places, joints, and so forth of the model you’re weathering. After you’ve applied a single coat, set the model aside and allow it to air dry. The water will evaporate, leaving the chalk behind to create a grimy, weathered look. (This is really nice to use around smoke stacks and chimneys to simulate ash and smoke stains and markings.) You will likely have to use a clear coat matte sealer to protect the chalked look as it could smear with rough handling.

So that’s about all I have to offer for now. If you feel like trying out any of these little tricks, please check back in with me. Tell me if you liked the effect or if it was a waste of time. Either way, keep learning new skills in your hobby. It keeps things interesting, and fresh.

See you next time, and keep rollin’ sixes!

ARMORED TRAINS

Armored Train

The emergence of trains as a means of transport and supply made travel from place to place faster and more effective. What usually would take a week to move could easily now be placed in a new location within a day. A train could move across great distances with relative ease and speed as compared to a unit of foot soldiers and some mule driven wagons. Additionally, commanders in the field could survey the battlefield and use the trains as delivery systems to get soldiers into key locations without the need to tire them out getting their on foot. The extensive use of trains in military situations forced engineers and railroad crews to improvise armor and weapondry for their trains.

It is important to note now that there is a difference between armored trains and armed trains. Armored trains used vast amounts of armor plating, modified view ports and windows, extensive railroad weaponry, and rams. Armorerd trains were used primarily for military purposes and not for transporting  goods or troopers. However, armed trains were simply troop or supply trains that were outfitted with flatcars that had stacks of sandbags to provide cover for groups of snipers who were supposed to defend the train from attacks, or box cars that were outfitted with machine gun pits that allowed for heavy fire to be directed against anyone attempting to sabotage the train.

Railroads were very important to armies in the field. They were intended now oly to move freight from place to place but also to allow for soldier mobility, allowing fresh troopers to be deployed into contested areas and allow the soldiers to fight from within the train. Flatcars and wagons generally were outfitted with thick steel plates allowing the soldiers protection during fire fights. Sometimes the steel plates were designed with “murder holes” that allowed snipers to fire outwards with their rifles without revealing themselves to the enemy.

It became typical for armored trains to carry out a number of different military missions. For example: patrolling mainlines between established depots and stations, assisting infantry in engaging and intercepting the enemy, protecting the flanks of units in the field, escorting supply trains, and reinforcing encampments with mobile gun platforms.

Gun Pill Box on Flatcar

RAILROADS AND WAR

Armored Train

The next NO QUARTER is going to feature some information on a IK Supply Train. I thought I would discuss the role that railroads play during war time. Although I am drawing my information from the use of war trains during the American Civil War, much of the information may be applicable to the Iron Kingdoms. Be aware that there is nothing official about this article. It’s my thoughts and opinions. We’ll see what NO QUARTER has to say when the next issue comes out.

Railroads are second only to waterways for armies in the field. Locomotives often provided logistical support, and some were utilized for tactical missions. In some situations, military leaders would send locomotive teams to reconnoiter the battlefield and gain information on enemy troop positions, movement, and supply lines. The trains could spy on the enemy and then reverse course to escape harm. A locomotive chugging along at over 50 mph could easily outrun foot troops and cavalry, asuming that the tracks were secure. This superior transportation was also used for delivering supplies, mail, commanders, and troops into key objectives on the battlfield. Although telegraph communications could be used at times to deliever imprtant information and intelligence, it was more effective to use a locomotive team to get the job done. It is easier to sabotage a telegrapgh system than to knock out a railway.

Railroads and the trains using them were often key targets for military missions. They had to be readily defended and maintained during warefare. The loss of a single train could spell disaster for a heavy entrenched or deployed miltary force. Locomotives were vulnerable to derailments and sharpshooters, who might eliminate a boiler or an operator. Although armor was used to protect boilers, it was not very long until locomotive crewmen discovered that too much armor would overheat the cabs and toast the people inside. An solution eventually evolved applying armor to some parts of the cab and installing small oval windows, allowing for the crew to see out but minimizing the target for a sniper’s bullet. Derailments were a crewmen’s worst nightmare. Crews of inspectors (mechaniks and bodgers!) were emplyed to constantly check out the tracks and make sure that they were not only secured but free of sabotage.

Locomotives used during wartime often were outfitted with rams. Although the tactics was usually not very effective, there were some incidents where tracks were blocked, and barracaded. A locomotive chugging along under full steam could blow through the obstruction and keep moving. Although it was usually unlikely, sometimes locomotives had to prepare for head-to-head battle between enemy trains occupying either the same main track or second and third rail supply tracks. Sometimes cabs and cars would be deliberately left on the railway, and set ablaze to force a enemy locomotive to deal with multiple risks at the same time. And if enemy forces destoryed an unsecured station or bridge, the locomotive would be “dead in the water” so to say. Many diry tricks were used to stop locomotives from reaching their objectives in the field.

Cannon Car on Train

Armored trains were an excellent way to not only protect a locomotive from attack, but also to increase artillery mobility. An armored train could carry a flat car outfitted with artillery and snipers ready to bring hell to the enemy. Armored trains almost always used the same marching order: a locomotive at the center of the train, with flatcars on either end loaded with troopers and artillery. Then boxcars would be spaced out between the flatcars in order to provide protection to its valuable content. Armored trains doubled as construction trains, escorts to supply trains, and recon units to spy on the enemy.

Although this short article does not cover all the uses of trains during wartime, the limited information contained herein makes it clear that they were important. Whether used as a fast moving delivery system, or a highly mobile artillery platform, trains were necessary for the success of units in the field. a properly maintained and secured railway could literally mean the difference been a success or defeat in the middle of a battle.

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