BRICK BUILDINGS

Painting brick buildings can be an annoying task.

Here is one way to accomplish the task without losing your mind.

My reference paints are Vallejo Model Color.

• Spray paint the entire building a single color. I used black. Make sure the spray paint is room temperature, well shaken, and matte. If you’re painting plastic, make sure the spray is intended for plastic. If your building has any signs like the one above did, cover the signs (and windows) with blue painting tape. I actually put a strip of blue painter’s tape on the interior of each window as well to give the building a “glowing blue” look from inside. After all, Cygnar is known for it’s glowing blue gadgets.
• Drybrush the entire building using #921 English Uniform. (You could use P3 Gun Corps Brown) This will give the building a nice overall “brick” look.
• Using #828 Woodgrain, create an ink by adding a 1:1 ratio of water/paint. Ink the entire building. Allow this to dry.
• Using 886 Green Grey (You can mix 3:1 Ironhull Grey and Gnarls Green) drybrush the walls up and down to create what would appear to be weathering from water running down the walls. If you wish, use a little crumbled up white or gray chalk to lightly dust the entire building.
• Seal with a matte sealer when you are happy with the completed building.

Ok then, get out there and paint your buildings!

Until next time, keep rollin’ sixes!

MODEL RAILROAD SCALES

Since there is a link between the Iron Kingdoms and steam locomotives, I often read posts on the Privateer Press forums about model railroading. Most of the time the questions deal with scale and cost of materials. Most of the time the other people responding are correct. However, not always. Please refer to this link which helps describe the scales.

I have been involved in model railroading since before I was ten. So I have a little information that I can supply about the right size of model railroad models that work with WARMACHINE and HORDES miniatures.

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Take a few minutes and watch this video: Introduction by Michael Gross. Also, be aware of this website as it offers excellent information.

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The Train Approaches ...

The Big Question: SO WHAT?!

First, please understand that model railroading is a hobby all on its own. It has folks who are passionate about their hobby in the same way you love playing WARMACHINE or HORDES. So understand that model railroad models are relative to war game miniatures. They are Big Boy Toys and can easily get expensive. Second, wrap your head around the idea that model railroaders and their hobby shops are an awesome resource for the miniature wargamer. These guys tend to be good at making terrain and scenery. So they can offer tips and tricks that you don’t know or understand yet. Also, model railroad hobby shops have a great supply of tools and materials you’ll need for WARMACHINE and HORDES. So make friends with the local model railroad geeks. You might find out that they like miniature wargaming as much as you do. So find your local hobby shop, and start networking! Click this link for even more information.

What is the difference between gauge and scale?

Gauge refers to the distance between the inside edges of the running, or outside, rails on a piece of track. The most popular gauge of track in the toy train hobby is O (pronounced “oh”), which measures 1.25 inches between the running rails. Scale refers to the ratio of a miniature train’s measurements compared to the dimensions of a full-sized, or prototype, train. For example, an O scale train has a 1:48 proportion to the real thing, meaning that 1 inch on the surface of the model equals 48 inches on the surface of the prototype train. Toy train manufacturers generally have not made trains that are completely to scale because doing so might increase production costs and leave the trains unable to negotiate the sharp curves on typical layouts. Increasingly, however, firms are making trains that deserve to be called scale models. Article about Scales and Gauges.

Keep in mind that S Scale and O Scale are a little easier to find (especially on eBay) and less expensive. S and O both work just fine with WARMACHINE and HORDES models in size ratios. (Although the Black 13th might work better with OO scale models … because they are so damn tiny.) G scale is big and although it is idealistically the best to use with WARMACHINE and HORDES best the Iron Kingdom locomotives are B-I-G …  BIG! … the price is much higher and availability of G scale models can be tough depending on where you live.

MODEL RAILROAD SCALES

What should I look for in buying a model train?

Modelers should consider these elements: realism, running capabilities, and level of detail. Beyond that, you’d use the same considerations as deciding whether to buy a $1,000, a $50, or a $5 watch. Obviously, there should be more inherent quality and value in an expensive locomotive, but the mid-priced version is often an attractive and well-equipped alternative. It’s the inexplicably cheap one that warrants caution. Check out eBay. And if you just want to buy a little toy train that you can hack up, convert, and paint for playing WARMACHINE scenarios then check out your local DOLLAR STORE, DOLLAR TREE, K-MART, AND WAL-MART. Especially at Christmas time they tend to carry plastic toy trains that are an excellent scale, and right price for miniature wargamers.

What types of track are there?

Besides the obvious size differences between O and S gauge toy trains, O gauge track comes in a variety of measurements that allow hobbyists to create circles of track with different diameters and so operate trains of varying lengths and sizes. O-27 track means you can build a circle of track with a 27-inch diameter. Shorter locomotives with a few cars run best on this track. O-31, O-42, and O-54 track can be used on most average-sized layouts, while O-72 track creates the largest curves for longer locomotives and trains. Operators seeking realistic track can select from GarGraves (available in rigid sectional or “flexible” versions), the 21st Century Track system by Atlas O, and the Rite-Trax system from MTH (a modular system with pre-formed plastic roadbed).

Types of track

Where can I buy this stuff online?

Well, again, I encourage you to find local sources of model railroad supplies. You probably have a local hobby shop in your area that maybe doesn’t carry Privateer Press stuff, but does stock model railroading supplies. Go there. Introduce yourself. Meet people, and support your local hobby shop.

But beyond that, you can always check out eBay as mentioned before. Then you can shop around on the following website that I often shop:

Hobby Linc.com

Walthers Online

RAILRAMA

Train Universe

Wal-Mart

In any case, there are a couple of fun scenarios out there for WARMACHINE using model trains. Find whichever type of model train is right for you, and have some fun with it. Convert it, kitbash it, and paint it up. When you get your model done, please come into the Privateer Press forums and post the finish product. I’d love to see it.

Have a good one!

Keep rollin’ sixes.

SMALL TREES

Do you follow the crowd, or form your own opinion?

We live in a time dominated by all kinds of public opinion polls. Decisions are being driven by the crowd, and sometimes this is a good thing. Surveys can inform us about people’s experiences with products helping us make wiser purchases. Opinion polls can tell elected officials of how their policies have been received by the public. And when information is gleaned on a personal level, it can help us in making decisions in a variety situations.

The same can be said about the scenery and terrain pieces we use with our little toy soldiers. Blogs, podcasts, and videos reveal the good, bad, and ugly about all the choices of terrain that we have out there. Before buying, most people will do a little research in order to find out if the piece is made well, transports easily, and holds up decently to the use and abuse of miniature gaming. However, in the end, personal opinion wins out.

Some people like homemade terrain, and others hate it. Some people only buy their terrain, and would never waste their time making something that they would view as “ugly” and “unattractive.” Others just want something that works and is inexpensive to put on the table. Heck, some people just use whatever is laying around like books, plates, soda cans, and pie pans.

There’s nothing like playing “King of the Hill” from WARMACHINE using a big fat pie pan.

Anyway, it really comes down to the reality of what you want in quality. Do you want to spend some hard earned cash to have beautiful stuff to put on the table, or do you need to use “upcycled” stuff from around the house and “found items” to make your terrain? It’s really up to you.

If you’re into inexpensive items that you can have fun making into terrain, then this is another idea for “Terrain on the Cheap” for you!

As I discussed last year, you can make simple, functional trees using Moss Rocks and Dowel Rods. You can likely find both items in a local craft store or dollar store. Here in town you can buy them for $1 each at the Dollar Store, Dollar Tree, JoAnn Fabrics, and other stores of that kind.

You simply need to cut the dowel rods to your desired length, and paint them to your desired color. After they are dry, carefully push one end pf the dowel rod into the foam “rock” to make a tree. You can also do this using toothpicks if you choose. Additional detail can be added easily by using Green Stuff on the dowel rods to bulk them up, and carve in details to resemble tree bark. In the end, you’ll probably want to attach them to some kind of base depending on what game you play. I recommend at least a 40mm base for WARMACHINE.

And ta-dah, you have trees for your favorite miniature wargame!

Also, go over to WWPD and check out this awesome article about making flocked felt tree templates. Not a bad idea.

Brick and Mortar

Red brick buildings can come in many shades. Here is a basic guide on how to paint a red brick building.

• Use whatever kind of paint you wish. Pick a nice flat (matte) dark reddish brown color as a base coat. Paint the entire area of brick with the base color and allow it to dry.
• Apply a mortar wash to the entire area of brick. Use a wide flat brush. The one I use is called a “Shader.” Use a grayish white color for the mortar wash. Thin the gray paint down by adding water until you get a nice thin wash. Using the flat brush, apply the wash to the entire building. This will allow the lighter color to sink into the recesses of the brick. Allow this to dry.
• If you believe that you didn’t water the wash down enough and you got too much gray on the red brick, use a pencil eraser to carfully remove some of the excess mortar wash.
• Using a different brush, drybrush lightly over the entire surface with the original dark base color. Feel free to allow some areas to remain lighter in order to show weathering.

A second way to do this may be simpler for some hobbyists. It works because on textured card or styrene.

• Paint the entire brick area of the building white. This serves as a basecoat and sets the underlying mortar color for the bricks. Allow this to dry.
• Wash the entire building with a mortar wash of a light gray. Most mortar is not white, and it will add some variance to the base color. Allow this to dry.
• Using a dark reddish brown color, drybrush the entire brick area. The drybrushing will color the brick on the raised surfaces, and allow the lighter color to remain visibile in the crevices between the bricks.

CENTRAL OHIO MODELER MEET

Image via Wikipedia

The Central Ohio Prototype Modeler Meet begins Thursday night at 8:00 pm with photos and slides. Early arrivals will dine at the ledgendary Shovel bistro across the parking lot. Friday and Saturday the event starts at 9:00 am and runs until at least 8:00 pm each day. A dinner break is set around 5:00 pm with evening movies and slides until we can no longer keep our eyes open.

Nightly slide and movie shows will feature work of noted photographers Joe Slanser, Dale DeVene, Warren Calloway, Robert Graham, and others. Clinics on a variety of prototype topics will offer ideas and techniques to further your modeling skill and knowledge. Additional event details will be posted so check for updates.

An optional cookout lunch is set for late Saturday afternoon. An extra $10.00 cost covers your all-you-can-eat meal. No advance notice or payment needed. The $10.00 can be paid when you attend the cookout.

The Marion Model Railroad Club will be open during the event. More information available HERE.

BIGGER IS BETTER?

 

Armored Train

If you spend any time in the terrain and scenery section of the Privateer Press forums, you will notice that the question of model railroading and scale in comparison to WARMACHINE miniatures comes up maybe once or twice a month. During the discussion, someone will end up saying that although O scale (1:48) fits WARMACHINE miniatures very well, they believe that G scale (1:22.5) stock is much better to make the trains tower over their miniatures. The main thing you need to understand is the purpose behind the different scales. Each individual scale has a history, purpose, and level of quality.

Model trains come in many different sizes. Some people, particularly those who have little modeling space, enjoy the extreme miniaturization of Z scale (1:220 of life size) or N scale (1:160). Others insist that only the largest scales have the size and weight to convey sufficient realism and detail. O scale (1:48) is a classic large scale with a long history; but a significant number of model railroaders today opt for an even bigger line of trains known as G scale. The letter “G” derives from “garden” railroading, referring to a charming and often toylike brand of model railroading set at 1:22.5, more than twice the size of O scale.

Garden railroading is an entirely separate pursuit from “scale” or “prototypical” modeling, which places greater emphasis on realism. To confuse matters further, G scale is just one of several gauges that share a single size of track known as #1 gauge, with rails 1-3/4 inches apart. The overall designation “large scale” includes sizes of 1:30.3, 1:22.5, 1:24, 1:29, and 1:32. Manufacturers include LGB (the European originator of G scale), Bachmann, Aristo-Craft, and USA Trains, among others.

To the untrained eye at first, the differences between these scales can be slight, but intermixing equipment from each will not create a pleasing effect due to obvious stylistic as well as size differences. In most scales – the best-selling HO scale, for instance – one can purchase equipment from any number of different manufacturers and have all of it look good and operate well together. But the large scales require more research and window shopping before one buys any trains. Sticking to just one manufacturer will ensure uniformity of equipment, but you first need to decide in exactly which scale (and which style) you wish to work, and which manufacturers serve that scale. Garden Railways, a magazine devoted solely to the large scales, is one good resource for learning about the types of equipment that are available.

Big trains are far more expensive than the mass-produced smaller scales such as HO and N. But one train with only a few cars can make a very arresting impression as it rolls through a well-planned garden route or layout. In addition to garden railways and other outdoor setups, one familiar indoor application of G scale layouts is the overhead display. Many restaurants and bars have installed a large loop of track on roadbed suspended from the ceiling, for the entertainment of their patrons.

While indoor layouts are certainly possible in G scale and the other large scales, they tend to look much less realistic than the smaller scales because the curves must be tremendously sharp just to fit a layout into the space most people have available. Indeed, long locomotives (not found in LGB trains but available from other makers) and cars can barely make it around such curves, if at all. Large outdoor or garden layouts can utilize much more space with gentler curves and satisfyingly long straightaways. Weather presents challenges in keeping the track clean and maintaining good electrical connections, but non-traditional methods of propulsion exist that can lessen the need for constant cleaning of the rails. Some enterprising hobbyists have installed radio-controlled motors in their locomotives, and there is a whole group of “live steam” modelers whose steam locomotives duplicate the operation of the full-size prototype.

And this is why, like many WARMACHINE players, many collectors of trains unite believe that indeed: “Bigger is Better.”

FOUR NIFTY TOOLS

There are certain tools that I use on my painting table that I simply cannot do without. I’m not talking about paint, brushes, or anything like that. Here is the short list:

 

1. GORILLA SUPER GLUE:  Yeah, getting models put together and keeping them together is an issue for anyone who deals with miniature wargaming. I don’t care what anyone else says, Gorilla Super Glue is my first choice in adhesives. The stuff claims to be “impact tough” and it certainly is from my experience. I remember having assembled a Heavy Warjack in the living room while watching TV. I left the Warjack to sit long enough to walk into the kitchen to get a drink. Pouring my drink, I heard a flutter of activity in the living room and a loud “THUD.” Of course, my cat had jumped up on my TV tray and batted the model to the floor. I was happily surprised to find that the model was fully intact, and undamaged. And no, I hadn’t used any pins. That sold me right there. The glue lasts a long time, is easy to use, and is formulated to be super tough. Read more about it here.
2. LOCTITE PUTTY: I used to use Green Stuff and then started using Blue Stuff. And it worked just fine. But I generally had to order it online and it wasn’t readily available. When I was buying some Gorilla Super Glue, I noticed Loctite Putty and decided to give it a try. In my opinion, it works just as good as any of the other putty and it’s easier to get my hands on. Generally I am not sculpting anything, just using it to fill gaps so it works great for me. And it lasts a long time, so that’s always a bonus. You can check it out by clicking on this link.
3. PINK SOAP: I started using Pink Soap after a tragedy in my apartment. I had a mishap with some bright blue paint, and dropped the paint pot in my lap. Trying to snatch the paint pot up to save my clothing resulted in sending it like a mortar shell into the air and on to the rug … the light colored tan rug. After doing some investigating online, I found that most people suggested using Pink Soap. It not only worked on the rug and my clothing, but it’s intended purpose of cleaning brushes was a happy little surprise. It’s the only thing I use to clean my brushes these days.
4. PAINTIER 80: Simple, but effective. This thing keeps my paints organized and easy to access. I picked it up a long time ago, and have not regretted the purchase. You can read more about it on the website by clicking on this link.

That’s all for now. You can take a few moments to read about the sorting devices I use on my painting table as well. When you’re done, please leave a comment here about the tools that you find useful on your painting table. I’d like to hear about them!

 

 

FREIGHT CAR SHOPS

By Delano, Jack

 

Freight cars are the hardest working equipment on any railroad. Every line, and many industries with large car fleets, operates a car shop to handle repairs. At yards, inspectors check cars for defects. Simple repairs are done without removing the car from the train. If a major problem is noted, and the car can be moved safely, it will be routed to the owner for repair. If the damage is serious, the car will be moved to the railroad’s shop and the owner billed for the work. Car shops are specialized buildings for fast movement of cars between workstations. Sufficient clearance between tracks provides room for scaffolding or materials. Many also have a light-duty overhead crane. The shop may house several departments, handling brakes, trucks, wheels and other fittings.

When railroads maintained passenger car fleets, the work was done in separate shops. Passenger cars required more specialized repairs of plumbing, electrical equipment, steam heating equipment, upholstery and more, which needed a cleaner environment. The car shop is still very much a part of railroading, as repairs and upgrades to existing equipment are frequently cheaper than buying new cars. Through mergers, some railroads have consolidated duplicate facilities into one shop, and there are contract rebuilders who also provide similar services.

Mechaniks in the Iron Kingdoms are busy. They not only have to keep trains and warjacks up to snuff, but they have to maintain the tracks, shops, and buildings. Playing a game of WARMACHINE can be a little more interesting if you include some scenarios or objectives dealing with railroads. Try your next game by setting up terrain to create a freight yard, or car shop. Battling in and out of the various tracks and cars can be a lot of fun.

Idea #1: Set up several rail cars in a freight yard like the picture above. Set deployment zones as you wish. Now use some scraps of paper (4-6 pieces) marking all but one of them “Empty” and the last “Loot!” Mix the scraps up and then use the scraps to mark freight cars on the battlefield. The idea is that neither player knows which one is the loot car. Carry out the game as usual but with a win condition of finding the Loot. In order to “Search” the railroad car, at least one small or medium based model must use it’s action that turn to declare a “Search Action.” Finding the Loot scores a win for that player. What is the Loot? Whatever you choose.

Idea #2: Set up a rail car storage yard. (Think modern day shipping container storage yard for reference.) Make it like a maze. The objective of the game is to get through the yard and assassinate the opposing Warmaster/Warlock. This should be carried out like a Grudge Match between Stryker and Magnus. You can create rules about how the containers provide cover, elevation, or whatever. Maybe you can make it that the containers can be blown up, or moved. I suggest placing a few cranes (like during the Leagues dealing with the Broken Coast) that would allow players to use the crane to move models, or even railroad cars around the battlefield.

Idea #3: My favorite was the game I played against my wife. We set up a length of track running through of the board at a slight angle corner to corner. I played Cygnar, and chose to Defend the Train. My only prerequisite was that my choices had to each have at least one ranged weapon to fire from the train. (No problem!) We started the train at one end of the track with the engine and three cars. I deployed my army throughout the train. My wife chose to be the Attacker, and set her army up with a 10″ deployment zone from her chosen table edge (although she could not choose the one where the train was currently sitting.) The Defender has to shoot the opposing team as the train moves down the track. (We rolled a d6 and added 2″ meaning that the train would move between 3″ and 8″ a turn.)  The Attacker not only gets to use the standard weapons to attack the Defenders, and the Train … but also may declare one small or medium based unit to have control of a bomb that may be used to destroy the track and derail the Train. We made it that the model setting the Bomb had a skill of [5] when installing the Bomb in a hurry on the battlefield. Rolling 1-5 means the bomb will go off and derail the Train, making the Defender have to fight to protect the wreck. Rolling a 6-12 means that the bomb fizzles and the Train will keep moving. If the Train makes it the whole way off the board without being derailed or destroyed, it’s a scenario win for the Defender. Either side assassinating the opposing Warcaster/Warlock wins as normal. Although there are rules for the DEF/ARM of a train in No Quarter somewhere, I think we went with a simple 10/25 for the stats for the Train. Why ARM 25? Cuz we wanted to give it a fighting chance when a Heavy Jack stepped on to the tracks in front of the engine and charged with a huge spear or axe.

You can come up with your own ideas for scenarios. Remember, this is fun so go crazy and come up with some wacky stuff to play. If all else fails, play through a Great Train Robbery.

Click here to read more of my Blog articles about railroads and railroading.

While we’re talking about railroads and railroading, check out Walthers.com today. Walthers is currently offering free standard shipping on domestic orders of $150 or more, and $3.95 shipping on orders of $100-$149.99. Offers are good only for in-stock items and standard shipping to addresses within the United States. Also, head on over to Walthers Winter Sale for great scenery materials and details to create your own unique winter landscape, as well as the perfect Valentine’s Day figures to add a dash of romance to those cold winter months.

FREE TERRAIN FRIDAY

Do you live near an Ikea? Then read this thread to find out how you can get some free terrain making materials from Ikea.

Long story short, Ikea uses plastic frames to package some of their housewares and picture frames. These are pretty cool for making small scenery sets like ruins and bulkheads.

Ikea just throws these away.

According to fastolfrus of The Lead Adventure Forum:

“Just go into the shop mid afternoon (when they are tidying stock), find a member of staff in the pictures department (that’s often the hard part), and explain that you would like some of their scrap packaging for a modelling project. If you show them a piece (it’s usually easy to find some in the bottom of a picture box) it’s easier. If you’re lucky they will be half way through tidying the stock and have a pile of frames that they were about to bin, if you’re really lucky they will give you them in a cardboard box -easier to carry – and some helpful staff might go and find other odd bits of useful packaging for you.” – fastolfrus

HANDY TOOL

I have a lot of handy tools on my painting table, but this is one of the ones that I couldn’t live without, seriously. I use Gorilla Superglue, and although their bottle is probably the best design I have seen for awhile to prevent clogging … in the end the tip gets clogged sooner or later. This is likely user error, but I don’t bash my head against the desk anymore when the nozzle glues itself shut. I just grab for this little baby …

Using this piercing tool, I can easily bust through the top of the super glue bottle and clear the nozzle. I picked mine up in Indiana, PA about six years ago. At the time, I was using Zap-A-Gap and the stupid bottle would seal itself about half way through my using it. I got this baby for about $3 and was a happy man.

You can find piercing tools in almost any craft or hobby store that sells clay. It’s mainly a shaping tool for clay. And be careful, that thing is sharp!