PREACHING TO THE CHOIR

Posted on May 22, 2013 by BIG RICH

Sing.
Sing a song.
Sing out loud, sing out strong.
Sing of good things, not bad.
Sing of happy, not sad.
Sing.
Sing a song.
Make it simple to last your whole life long.
Don´t worry that it´s not good enough for anyone else to hear.
Just sing.
Menoth wills it.

Revelations of the Creator

Posted on May 11, 2013 by BIG RICH

Theme Army – Revelations of the Creator

Originally presented in Warmachine: Colossals

An Intercessor Kreoss force can be chosen from any of the options available to the Protectorate of Menoth, but a themed or Tier list can only be built from a select number of units, (warjacks or warbeasts) and solos. The units required to unlock the special list abilities for Intercessor Kreoss are as follows:

Warjacks – Non-character Warjacks and the Fire of Salvation
Units – Choirs, Exemplar Units, Protectorate Cavalry
Solos – Reclaimers, Exemplar Solos, Vassal Solos
Battle Engines – The Vessel of Judgement

Tier 1	Army uses only models/units that are among those listed above. Benefit: Increase the FA of non character Cav solos and units by 1
Tier 2	Include a unit of Vengers Benefit: +1 to starting roll of the game
Tier 3	Include the Fire of Salvation Benefit: Heavy warjacks with no ranged weapons cost 1 point less
Tier 4	Include at least one unit of the choir Benefit: For each choir one jack gets advance move

PERFECT USE FOR TRENCHERS

Posted on May 9, 2013 by BIG RICH

I really like the Privateer Press Trencher models, and I’ve collected quite a few. I even took the time to paint them because I was a true believer that somehow they would be awesome on the battefield. However, with the high cost of points for the unit, too many options as unit attachments and add ons, and simply better options to take their place like Commandos … the Trenchers are of little use to me in a game of WARMACHINE.

But after a few years of thought, I have managed to find a way that I can utilize my Trenchers and make them useful again …. by using them as USA forces in my games of Secrets of the Third Reich!

Yes, although they are high priced and tend to under perform in games of WARMACHINE, they tend to be inexpensive and effective within a game of Secrets of the Third Reich! When they shoot, they tend to hit. When they toss smoke bombs, the smoke actually hides them from things. And yes, they can usually do pretty well in Hand to Hand combat using their pointy knives on the end of their rifles.

Imagine that!

USA Armored Infantry Fire Team (Secrets of the Third Reich)

Now if my Long Gunners were good for something other than taking up space in my Army Transport trays…

CYGNAR STORMBLADE CAPTAIN

Posted on March 28, 2013 by BIG RICH

[FROM THE PRIVATEER PRESS WEBSITE]:

“Armed with the mighty nexus blade, the Stormblade infantry captain is a fearsome warrior and peerless leader. A master of the storm knight’s tactics, the captain drills his men until they can perform unstoppable charges and precisely maneuver through and around their peers.”

I’m a big fan of the Stormblades. I usually run them with Epic Stryker. With a full unit of Stormblades, plus their attachments you can dish out some decent damage. And if you use Old Man Nemo and his nursemaid, you can pop his feat and do some naughty things to the enemy.

So anyway, sons and daughters of Cygnar, what do you think this solo will do for us? And will it be at a point cost that makes him worthwhile? Please, share you opinions.

Keep Rollin’ Sixes.

MODEL RAILROAD SCALES

Posted on February 28, 2013 by BIG RICH

Since there is a link between the Iron Kingdoms and steam locomotives, I often read posts on the Privateer Press forums about model railroading. Most of the time the questions deal with scale and cost of materials. Most of the time the other people responding are correct. However, not always. Please refer to this link which helps describe the scales.I have been involved in model railroading since before I was ten. So I have a little information that I can supply about the right size of model railroad models that work with WARMACHINE and HORDES miniatures.∞Take a few minutes and watch this video: Introduction by Michael Gross. Also, be aware of this website as it offers excellent information.∞

The Big Question: SO WHAT?!

First, please understand that model railroading is a hobby all on its own. It has folks who are passionate about their hobby in the same way you love playing WARMACHINE or HORDES. So understand that model railroad models are relative to war game miniatures. They are Big Boy Toys and can easily get expensive. Second, wrap your head around the idea that model railroaders and their hobby shops are an awesome resource for the miniature wargamer. These guys tend to be good at making terrain and scenery. So they can offer tips and tricks that you don’t know or understand yet. Also, model railroad hobby shops have a great supply of tools and materials you’ll need for WARMACHINE and HORDES. So make friends with the local model railroad geeks. You might find out that they like miniature wargaming as much as you do. So find your local hobby shop, and start networking! Click this link for even more information.

What is the difference between gauge and scale?

Gauge refers to the distance between the inside edges of the running, or outside, rails on a piece of track. The most popular gauge of track in the toy train hobby is O (pronounced “oh”), which measures 1.25 inches between the running rails. Scale refers to the ratio of a miniature train’s measurements compared to the dimensions of a full-sized, or prototype, train. For example, an O scale train has a 1:48 proportion to the real thing, meaning that 1 inch on the surface of the model equals 48 inches on the surface of the prototype train. Toy train manufacturers generally have not made trains that are completely to scale because doing so might increase production costs and leave the trains unable to negotiate the sharp curves on typical layouts. Increasingly, however, firms are making trains that deserve to be called scale models. Article about Scales and Gauges.

Keep in mind that S Scale and O Scale are a little easier to find (especially on eBay) and less expensive. S and O both work just fine with WARMACHINE and HORDES models in size ratios. (Although the Black 13th might work better with OO scale models … because they are so damn tiny.) G scale is big and although it is idealistically the best to use with WARMACHINE and HORDES best the Iron Kingdom locomotives are B-I-G … BIG! … the price is much higher and availability of G scale models can be tough depending on where you live.

MODEL RAILROAD SCALES

What should I look for in buying a model train?

Modelers should consider these elements: realism, running capabilities, and level of detail. Beyond that, you’d use the same considerations as deciding whether to buy a $1,000, a $50, or a $5 watch. Obviously, there should be more inherent quality and value in an expensive locomotive, but the mid-priced version is often an attractive and well-equipped alternative. It’s the inexplicably cheap one that warrants caution. Check out eBay. And if you just want to buy a little toy train that you can hack up, convert, and paint for playing WARMACHINE scenarios then check out your local DOLLAR STORE, DOLLAR TREE, K-MART, AND WAL-MART. Especially at Christmas time they tend to carry plastic toy trains that are an excellent scale, and right price for miniature wargamers.

What types of track are there?

Besides the obvious size differences between O and S gauge toy trains, O gauge track comes in a variety of measurements that allow hobbyists to create circles of track with different diameters and so operate trains of varying lengths and sizes. O-27 track means you can build a circle of track with a 27-inch diameter. Shorter locomotives with a few cars run best on this track. O-31, O-42, and O-54 track can be used on most average-sized layouts, while O-72 track creates the largest curves for longer locomotives and trains. Operators seeking realistic track can select from GarGraves (available in rigid sectional or “flexible” versions), the 21st Century Track system by Atlas O, and the Rite-Trax system from MTH (a modular system with pre-formed plastic roadbed).

Types of track

Where can I buy this stuff online?

Well, again, I encourage you to find local sources of model railroad supplies. You probably have a local hobby shop in your area that maybe doesn’t carry Privateer Press stuff, but does stock model railroading supplies. Go there. Introduce yourself. Meet people, and support your local hobby shop.

But beyond that, you can always check out eBay as mentioned before. Then you can shop around on the following website that I often shop:

In any case, there are a couple of fun scenarios out there for WARMACHINE using model trains. Find whichever type of model train is right for you, and have some fun with it. Convert it, kitbash it, and paint it up. When you get your model done, please come into the Privateer Press forums and post the finish product. I’d love to see it.

Have a good one!

Keep rollin’ sixes.

DIRTY BUSINESS

Posted on February 21, 2013 by BIG RICH

Image via Wikipedia

Steam Technology, whether we are discussing real life 19th century Steam Locomotives or fictional Iron Kingdoms Warjack Technology, is dirty business. The smokebox of a boiler spews steam out of stacks creating a significant amount of smoke, sparks, and hot air. These engines were dirty to be around, and much more so to maintain.

You can help simulate this by weathering your models. You already know about dry brushing and ink washes, but do you know about using oil paints and chalk washes to weather your miniatures?

Oil paints are good for creating patches or streaks of rust for figures or structures. Mostly, you would use darker colors of brown and brown-orange for rust spots and black or brown-black for larger streaked areas to simulate oil leaks or spills. Once you’ve applied the base coat of colors on the model, you can take an old brush with mineral spirits to streak the rust color down the side of the model to simulate age. Again, you can either be very subtle in doing this or just go wild with it. Depends on which faction you are painting and how well maintained the model would normally be: Cryx probably maintains their ‘jacks in a different manner than Cygnar. Keep in mind that it will take about 2 days for the oil paints to dry before you can do anything else with the model. Using a hair dryer or a low heat lamp may help with drying time.

In the same manner, artist’s crayons can be used for creating cool streaking effects, but they are especially useful for highlighting raised surfaces.

I also use Micro Deco Art pens for adding details, marking eyes, and making tattoos. I learned this from a good friend of mine. This was very useful when it came to Retribution models and their tiny details. And yes, there is a bright turquoise marker for those who are interested! You could also use Sharpie markers in the same school of though.

Chalk is also a great way to weather models. You can use chalk dust to lightly sift over buildings to simulate dust and dirt from everyday life. You can also use chalk to simulate mortar lines in textured model brick walls. Rub chalk dust over the model wall allowing the dust to gather in the low places of the model. Then simply take a dry, clean brush and brush away the dust from the higher surfaces of the textured brick wall. The dust should stay in the low places to help simulate the white or gray mortar lines of the brick.

Chalk Washes work well too. Simply use sandpaper to grind down some chalk into a fine dust. Mix this with clean water. I recommend using a small 3 oz cup like the ones sold in the Paper Supplies Isle of your favorite local grocery store. Fill that about half way, and then add the chalk dust to the water. Add about the same amount as would be in a sugar packet. Mix this well. You may have to experiment, adding more or less depending on how deep you wish the color to be in the wash. Then using a clean brush, paint on the wash as you would any other wash. The wash will settle into the low places, joints, and so forth of the model you’re weathering. After you’ve applied a single coat, set the model aside and allow it to air dry. The water will evaporate, leaving the chalk behind to create a grimy, weathered look. (This is really nice to use around smoke stacks and chimneys to simulate ash and smoke stains and markings.) You will likely have to use a clear coat matte sealer to protect the chalked look as it could smear with rough handling.

So that’s about all I have to offer for now. If you feel like trying out any of these little tricks, please check back in with me. Tell me if you liked the effect or if it was a waste of time. Either way, keep learning new skills in your hobby. It keeps things interesting, and fresh.

See you next time, and keep rollin’ sixes!

VENGERS ASSEMBLE!

Posted on December 29, 2012 by BIG RICH

My family bought me some gaming loot, and I had a little time to start putting my little dudes together. They fit very well, with few gaps. The gaps that do exist with be painted over with Liquid Green Stuff from Games Workshop.

2012 REFLECTIONS

Posted on December 29, 2012 by BIG RICH

Well, true believers, 2012 is drawing to a close.

I was thinking about the games that I played throughout the year and wanted to do a little recap for the blog. I did a good amount of gaming this year despite a lot of the things in my life that kept me busy and focused in other areas.

First, I started a new job at the end of December. My son was born in February. My Mom had several serious health problems that placed her in the hospital a few times. My Diabetes went out of control at one point and my blood sugars were up around 500 despite medication and diet. And lastly, I finally got some help for my depression, nightmares, and constant thoughts of suicide that I have been struggling with for about six years now.

All and all, it was a busy year.

And none of that included the time spent painting or gaming.

So what games did I enjoy the most this year? Here are the top six.

WARMACHINE, of course. I played several games with the local group, and a few with folks out of town. I really enjoy the game, but I believe that with the addition of Battle Engines and Colossals that the game is beginning to leave me behind. It’s basically just becoming Warhammer 40k in many ways. I realize that it is a part of the industry to compete. Warhammer has tanks, Warmachine has tanks now. Warhammer has Big Damn Robots in various forms, and now WARMACHINE does too. As I said, I still enjoy the game but now it’s turned into a subset of the game requiring players to either play “with or without” when it comes to Colossals. Also, I find that it can easily become boring when you play the same people all the time, especially if those people have designed their lists for tournament play rather than casual play. So we’ll see what the future holds for WARMACHINE in my little world. Either way, I enjoy painting the miniatures and am looking forward to reading the new novels that are supposed to be coming out.
Dungeons & Dragons was a lot of fun this year. I made some new friends simply because of rolling dice. We got to play through a campaign of First edition AD&D that was pretty exciting, and had some fun doing the D&D Next Playtest. I also had the opportunity to do some Skype playing with some of the guys who run AD&D podcasts, and was involved in playtesting some rules for Psionics. All in all, a good D&D year.
I continued to play some Heroscape, mainly with my wife but also with a few friends from time to time. I enjoy both the Marvel Super Hero and the Dungeons & Dragons versions of the game. One of my favorite parts is building the board by using the hex tiles and scenery. Although this is considered a “dead” game, the game is still alive and well on the internet being fueled by fellow gamers. Their are several new rule sets out there that have expanded the game immensely.
I had the opportunity to play some Shadowrun RPG with a few friends of mine. I haven’t played that game since about 1993. It was exciting to be involved again, and I look forward to some more gritty science fiction role-playing in the future with this awesome game.
And last but certainly not least, we have Secrets of the Third Reich and Incursion. I know that these games are different but they do coexist so I’m including them together. I accidentally stumbled upon this game while visiting my favorite gaming store, Legions Hobbies and Games in Pittsburgh, PA. They have an awesome display of Nazis being led by the Red Skull against the United States Army joined by Captain America and Bucky. The game included three of my favorite things: World War II, Super Heros, and Zombies! It was an instant hit. Also, the game is unique in that it is designed to be played alone or with other players. There are several solo missions that allow you to play this game in a few hours by yourself … and it’s still damn fun. Also, there are no real stat lines for any model. However, characters do have special abilities that set them apart. I am excited that Grindhouse Games has announced that there is a new version of Secrets of the Third Reich coming out, and I plan to grab it as soon as possible.