Scab Red- Red Spice
Blood Red-Red Apple
Blazing Orange-Pumpkin Orange
Bad Moon Yellow-Yellow
Scorched Brown- Burnt Sienna
Bestial Brown-Nutmeg Brown
Bubonic Brown-Carmel Candy
Bleached Bone-Antique White
Dark Flesh-Chocolate Bar
Vermin Brown-Goose Feather
Bronzed Flesh-Fresh Apricot
Elf Flesh-English Lace
Liche Purple-Wild Iris
Tentacle Pink-Bubble Gum
Midnight Blue-Night Sky
Regal Blue-Too Blue
Ultramarines Blue-Neon Blue
Enchanted Blue-Colbat Blue
Ice Blue-Bright Blue
Hawk Turquoise-Viking Blue
Dark Angels Green-Forrest Green
Snot Green-Woodland Green
Scorpion Green-Green Apple
Goblin Green-Leaf Green
Rotting Flesh-Lemon Chiffon
Camo Green-Country Tan
Scaly Green-True Teal
Shadow Grey-Blue Stoneware
Space Wolves Grey-Dolphin Gray
Codex Grey-Pewter Gray
Fortress Grey-Country Gray
Graveyard Earth-Burnt Sienna
Desert Yellow-Country Tan
Catachan Green-Hunter Green
Tanned Flesh-Brown Oxide
Mithril Silver-Metalic Silver Sterling
Chainmail-Metalic Silver Sterling
Boltgun Metal-Metalic Silver Sterling
Dwarf Bronze-Kings Gold
Brazen Brass- Pure Gold
Burnished Gold-Pure Gold
Shining Gold-Kings Gold
If you spend any time in the terrain and scenery section of the Privateer Press forums, you will notice that the question of model railroading and scale in comparison to WARMACHINE miniatures comes up maybe once or twice a month. During the discussion, someone will end up saying that although O scale (1:48) fits WARMACHINE miniatures very well, they believe that G scale (1:22.5) stock is much better to make the trains tower over their miniatures. The main thing you need to understand is the purpose behind the different scales. Each individual scale has a history, purpose, and level of quality.
Model trains come in many different sizes. Some people, particularly those who have little modeling space, enjoy the extreme miniaturization of Z scale (1:220 of life size) or N scale (1:160). Others insist that only the largest scales have the size and weight to convey sufficient realism and detail. O scale (1:48) is a classic large scale with a long history; but a significant number of model railroaders today opt for an even bigger line of trains known as G scale. The letter “G” derives from “garden” railroading, referring to a charming and often toylike brand of model railroading set at 1:22.5, more than twice the size of O scale.
Garden railroading is an entirely separate pursuit from “scale” or “prototypical” modeling, which places greater emphasis on realism. To confuse matters further, G scale is just one of several gauges that share a single size of track known as #1 gauge, with rails 1-3/4 inches apart. The overall designation “large scale” includes sizes of 1:30.3, 1:22.5, 1:24, 1:29, and 1:32. Manufacturers include LGB (the European originator of G scale), Bachmann, Aristo-Craft, and USA Trains, among others.
To the untrained eye at first, the differences between these scales can be slight, but intermixing equipment from each will not create a pleasing effect due to obvious stylistic as well as size differences. In most scales – the best-selling HO scale, for instance – one can purchase equipment from any number of different manufacturers and have all of it look good and operate well together. But the large scales require more research and window shopping before one buys any trains. Sticking to just one manufacturer will ensure uniformity of equipment, but you first need to decide in exactly which scale (and which style) you wish to work, and which manufacturers serve that scale. Garden Railways, a magazine devoted solely to the large scales, is one good resource for learning about the types of equipment that are available.
Big trains are far more expensive than the mass-produced smaller scales such as HO and N. But one train with only a few cars can make a very arresting impression as it rolls through a well-planned garden route or layout. In addition to garden railways and other outdoor setups, one familiar indoor application of G scale layouts is the overhead display. Many restaurants and bars have installed a large loop of track on roadbed suspended from the ceiling, for the entertainment of their patrons.
While indoor layouts are certainly possible in G scale and the other large scales, they tend to look much less realistic than the smaller scales because the curves must be tremendously sharp just to fit a layout into the space most people have available. Indeed, long locomotives (not found in LGB trains but available from other makers) and cars can barely make it around such curves, if at all. Large outdoor or garden layouts can utilize much more space with gentler curves and satisfyingly long straightaways. Weather presents challenges in keeping the track clean and maintaining good electrical connections, but non-traditional methods of propulsion exist that can lessen the need for constant cleaning of the rails. Some enterprising hobbyists have installed radio-controlled motors in their locomotives, and there is a whole group of “live steam” modelers whose steam locomotives duplicate the operation of the full-size prototype.
And this is why, like many WARMACHINE players, many collectors of trains unite believe that indeed: “Bigger is Better.”
Ground work can be easy and simple.
When you have built your piece of terrain and painted it, then it is time to add the groundwork.
There are plenty of materials to use, including mundane ( herbs, lichens, moss) and hobby focused (turf, field grass, static grass, and flock.) Either way, the materials should be mixed and matched to provide variance so that no color is dominant. (In the picture above, you’ll notice the static grass has brown and green mixed.)
Remember to consider your scenery before haphazardly adding vegetation. In some places the grasses and weeds may be growing wildly while in others foot traffic may have worn it down to nothing.
Distribute the flocking materials so that they look natural. Make sure that when the materials are fixed in place that they look realistic, are easily distinguished, and do not clash with each other.
And remember, you can use this method with terrain pieces and miniature bases. The concept is the same.
Alright, folks. Time to get to work!
Until next time, keep rollin’ sixes!
Painting brick buildings can be an annoying task.
Here is one way to accomplish the task without losing your mind.
My reference paints are Vallejo Model Color.
- Spray paint the entire building a single color. I used black. Make sure the spray paint is room temperature, well shaken, and matte. If you’re painting plastic, make sure the spray is intended for plastic. If your building has any signs like the one above did, cover the signs (and windows) with blue painting tape. I actually put a strip of blue painter’s tape on the interior of each window as well to give the building a “glowing blue” look from inside. After all, Cygnar is known for it’s glowing blue gadgets.
- Drybrush the entire building using #921 English Uniform. (You could use P3 Gun Corps Brown) This will give the building a nice overall “brick” look.
- Using #828 Woodgrain, create an ink by adding a 1:1 ratio of water/paint. Ink the entire building. Allow this to dry.
- Using 886 Green Grey (You can mix 3:1 Ironhull Grey and Gnarls Green) drybrush the walls up and down to create what would appear to be weathering from water running down the walls. If you wish, use a little crumbled up white or gray chalk to lightly dust the entire building.
- Seal with a matte sealer when you are happy with the completed building.
Southpaw Arts and Designs: Advanced Deployment makes cool gadgets, widgets, and tokens for your favorite role-playing and miniature games. Although it is not released yet, they will be featuring a “Portable Terrain Set” called the Realms of the Flatlands. From the looks of it, it features acrylic templates and terrain for use with miniature games like WARMACHINE and HORDES.
Keep your eye on them, they make some pretty cool stuff.
I don’t know about you, but sometimes I find it hard to keep the bits and pieces of my miniatures all in one place. It’s usually a tragedy when I drop a small part or scenic detail (like skulls) on the floor. Although I use bitz boxes and containers to store by bitz and left over parts, and have swallow cups and dishes to hold parts while I assemble a miniature, I have a nice little tool to share with you today: The Tacky Bead Pad.
The Tacky Bead Pad is a sticky mat that keeps beads and pieces in place while you’re working. It does not leave a sticky residue when you remove items from the mat. If the mat gets dirty, simply ‘recharge’ it by washing it under warm water until clean, let dry and it’s ready and sticky again. My Tacky Pad measures 4.25” x 4.25” (10.8cm x 10.8cm).
Bits stay stuck until you’re ready to use them. No more scattered or lost pieces on the painting table! Sounds like a good plan to me.
I picked mine up today at our new Joann Fabric store for less than a dollar, .97 to be exact. You can find them in the bead and craft jewelry section. A nice deal for a nifty tool.
If you need some of the cool Mage Knight Castle pieces on the cheap, check out this link.
This is a huge, beautifully sculpted, fully painted gatehouse standing 7″ tall that includes a working gate and portcullis. The gatehouse is perfect for any adventure or miniatures game, but made with Mage Knight combat dials built in to keep track of damage and abilities. The gatehouse can be used with the rest of the Mage Knight Castle pieces to construct fantastic castles, keeps, and other fortifications.
And at the cost, you can afford to buy a few of them. Enjoy!
I am making some progress with my Malifaux miniatures. I’m trying to finish off my Viktorias, and then complete the Ortegas. I’ve also been working on a Convict Gunslinger. Here’s some updated photos. Enjoy.
The first is my Convict Gunslinger. He is nicknamed “Sloth,” He’s sporting bright green hair, and an orange jumpsuit. I played around a bit with his skin tone, and tried to focus on his face and eyes. I’m not good at faces, so I am using these models to practice. I’ll probably base the model with some sand, a little flock, and a littering of shell casings.
Next, we have Papa Loco. I just plain like this model, but he’s been a bit of a pain to paint. I put a bunch of Woodland Scenics “Junk Pile” details on the base to give the appearance that Papa has been tossing his dynamite as he advances on the enemy. I decided that I’d paint him in an orange prison jumpsuit as well. Right now, all I have to do is clean up his face, dot the eyes, and pick out some details.
Next, we have Viktoria with Swords. I have officially called her done. I touched up some of her details, and stepped away from the model. I find that sometimes I start to obsess about details with some models, and this is one of those. I needed to just call it done and move on to the other ones on the painting table.
Well, that’s all for now. I have plenty of painting to do, and I will continue to log in and share my progress with you. Thanks for checking things out.