Painting – Children of the Ampersand

Umbrage Hill Windmill

In “Dragon of Icespire Peak, Adabra Gwynn lives in a windmill and produces potions of healing.

I found this wooden birdhouse windmill at Michaels for $9.99 (although I used a 30% off coupon to buy it) and have decided to paint for use within one of the D&D campaigns I’m overseeing.

I started with a coat of Matte Mod Podge to help seal the wood. Then I used Artminds Concrete for the stonework, and Citadel xv-88 and Citadel Tausept Ochre for the door.

I plan to paint the midsection of the windmill with Citadel Corax White, and the roof with Citadel Adeptus Battlegrey.

January 17, 2024 by Big Rich Categories: Buildings, Dungeons and Dragons, Painting, TerrainTags: Adabra Gwynn, Icespire Peak, Windmill 1 Comment

My polyarthritis has really been causing me a lot of pain so I haven’t been doing much painting as of late. HOWEVER, today I had a little relief so I decided to capitalize on this by painting a few of my Modular Underground Project (MUP) tiles. Today I am experimenting with adding some magnets and slapping some paint.

I am planning to use a basecoat of Citadel Gretchin Green on the brick to give it a sickly, gross sewery look. Then the sluices themselves will start with a basecoat of P3 Battlefield Brown to give it a dingy, poop water essence. I want them to match my Fat Dragon sewer pieces because I’d like to build a 3×3 M:CP sewer board for a future game.

March 12, 2022March 12, 2022 by Big Rich Categories: Painting, Sewer Board, TerrainTags: Modular Underground Project, Snapshot 3 Comments

Guardians Test Base

I assembled my Guardians of the Galaxy a few months back and played two games with them. Now that my wife bought me the “Spaceport Smackdown” cosmic mat from Atomic Mass Games, I’m planning to paint the bases of my Guardians models with matching colors. Below is my test base. I’m happy with it.

I plan on making a couple variants with additional colors like Orange and Yellow.

January 16, 2022January 17, 2022 by Big Rich Categories: Marvel: Crisis Protocol, PaintingTags: Marvel: Crisis Protocol Leave a comment

BASECOATS: IRON MAN AND HULK

Just in case you missed it, here’s the article about Iron Man.

I assembled Iron Man and Hulk. After allowing the glue to set overnight I was ready to start with some basecoating. The color schemes I decided to go with were (1) The Marvel Legends Hulk and (2) Stealth Suit Iron Man.

I prepped the models in my usual way, scrubbing them with a soft toothbrush and Mona Lisa Pink Soap. This helps to clean away any chemicals that might be on the plastic.

Let’s start with Hulk. I used paint from the Martha Stewart Satin line. I picked them up recently on 75% off sale at our Pat Catan’s store. So I started with a basecoat of Beetle Black on his flesh and Gray Wolf on his pants. I added two layers of Beetle Black before I decided to move on and use Seaweed which gave him a very dark green flesh tone. I ended up adding three thin layers of Seaweed by the end of the process.

When starting out, make sure to thin your acrylic paints with clean water until they have a thickness similar to milk. Don’t load your brush with too much paint at a time to keep it from flowing outside of the area you’re painting. Wipe off any excess paint from your brush on a paper towel or napkin. Using a few thin basecoats will help you to avoid obscuring too many small details.

And NOW … IRON MAN!

I planned on painting Iron Man the normal red and yellow. However, my seven-year-old son brought me his Stealth Suit Iron Man action figure and told me to use it for reference. And that’s how I ended up painting Iron Man in his Stealth Suit.

I basecoated the model with three thin layers of Beetle Black. I did this mainly because I did not want to obscure or gum up any of the tiny little details on the Iron Man model.

December 2, 2019December 1, 2019 by Big Rich Categories: Hulk, Iron Man, Marvel Superheroes, Miniature Painting, Miniatures, PaintingTags: Atomic Mass Games, Marvel Super Heroes Leave a comment

MUSHROOMS!

red round flower with withered leaves — Photo by Pixabay on Pexels.com

A mushroom, or toadstool, is the fleshy, spore-bearing fruiting body of a fungus, typically produced above ground on soil or on its food source. As a survival resource in the wild, normal mushrooms are much like cabbage in that they are a fat-burning food with few calories. Therefore, average mushrooms are considered comfort food or garnishes rather than main sources of food. However, this general rule changes in the Underdark as many types of mushrooms are either much larger in size or have special properties enjoyed by those who consume them.

Refer to the lovely table below created by Andy M. during a past Extra Life event.

Underdark Mushroom Table by Andy M.

I created two templates for use during our gaming. The templates are wooden and called “Wooden Sun” decorative pieces. I bought them at our local Pat Catan’s Craft Center. I can use these for forest templates or in the case of a recent gaming session, a template for mushrooms!

It’s always nice to have some homemade scatter terrain available for use in gaming sessions.

nature red forest mushroom — Photo by Pixabay on Pexels.com

June 5, 2018June 4, 2018 by Big Rich Categories: Dungeons and Dragons, Odds & Ends, Painting, TerrainTags: mushrooms, templates, Underdark Leave a comment

PROJECT: “CHULT TREES” (#2)

If you missed Step #1, you can find it here. I am making some inexpensive scatter terrain to be used when we sit down to play the next part of Tomb of Annihilation. I decided to make some jungle trees, and I’m sharing the process here on the blog.

So with all the bases glued together and dry, it was time to line them up and start painting.

I decided to use Liquitex Basics Acrylic Color “Raw Umber” for the base color. Why? Well, the reasons aren’t that strategic. First of all, the tube is getting old and I want to use up the paint. I bought is awhile ago at a craft store that was clearing all of their Liquitex paint from stock. Secondly, it is a dark color and great for a base. And thirdly, it has a higher viscosity than many of my other paints so it’s nice to use when painting a material like wood.

I slapped the paint to the bases, making sure the coverage was good. The wood will suck up some of the paint so you might have to do a second coat. Make sure to go back after the bases are dry to paint the sides. I didn’t worry about painting the bottoms of the bases, but if you want to do so … go for it.

Although the Raw Umber is only a base coat, I like the muddy look to it.

While I was waiting for the paint to dry, I decided to mix up some homemade flock. There is all kinds of flock available on the market right now made of all kinds of cool materials. However, I like to just make my own from upcycled materials. So my flock is made of two parts: coffee grounds and cilantro leaves. I like the earthy smell that the terrain has when I use these kinds of materials. I only tend to use homemade flock on terrain, using the “fancy” store-bought flock on my miniatures.

Using a star wars spoon, I pierced the Maxwell House MAX K-cup and scooped out the coffee grounds. I allowed the grounds to dry for about an hour before mixing in the cilantro leaves. You don’t have to use a Star Wars spoon for this step, but you should. 🙂

Afterwards, I mixed the materials together in a spare plastic dish. I chose one that my wife won’t miss for the time being. Wives can be weird about their kitchen wares being used for important things like terrain making. Go figure. 😉

Now my flock is ready to rock.

The next step is to highlight the bases and apply the flocking materials.

March 11, 2018March 11, 2018 by Big Rich Categories: Dungeons and Dragons, Odds & Ends, Painting, Star Wars, TerrainTags: Chult, Terrain, Tomb of Annihilation Leave a comment

JUST BEAT THE DEVIL OUT OF IT

How to wash your brush by Bob Ross.

November 16, 2014 by Big Rich Categories: PaintingTags: IABN, WARMACHINE Leave a comment

Citadel Paint Comparison Chart

For those of you concerned about Citadel and their paint line.

March 24, 2012February 1, 2014 by Big Rich Categories: PaintingTags: Warhammer, Warhammer 40k 6 Comments

RELAXING DAY

After getting the necessary odd jobs done around the house (and managing to avoid a few as well) I moved one of my tables outside and set things up so I could paint on the deck. I tried to do this yesterday, but got rained out. I set up the laptop so I could stream some decent music and then fired up the grill to make a few hamburgers. So that’s how I spent my afternoon: drinking Coke Zero, eating hamburgers, listening to music, and painting some miniatures.

I painted a little on my Kaya conversion. I am painting her hair a bright magenta purple, and her cloak a dark green.

I also managed to get some more work down on my Viktoria crew, as well as, the Convict Gunslinger. I’m not usually one to pick out small details when I’m doing small based models. Wahammer killed me on that. Having to paint a hundred Brettonians who were going to die like pigs broke my soul. Although I did enjoy painting my dozens of Nurgle Plaugebearers, but that’s because no matter what they look like … if they are ugly … you win.

Anyway, I have been trying to do a little better on painting faces. I think I’m making a little progress. I guess I’ve gained a little painting XP with the practice. I’m actually working on picking out their eyes and trying to add some flavor to their faces. When I post the updates to my pictures hopefully you’ll see that I at least tried to focus on the faces a bit.

I had a lot of fun today, and I’ll post some pictures of my progress as soon as I can snap off a frame or two with our fancy new camera. But right now I’m watching Ice Road Truckers … :O)

June 5, 2011May 10, 2013 by Big Rich Categories: Malifaux, PaintingTags: Malifaux Leave a comment

GUNS BLAZING

Megan and I took a little time out to play a game of Malifaux. She wanted to use the Viktorias and I used the Ortegas. We decided that we’d makes it that each crew was hunting the opposing Masters, as well as, trying to recover a Lost Artifact.

The game was very close. The Ortegas were able to do a lot of damage with their guns blazing, withering the Viktoria’s crew as they advanced. However, once Megan figured out that Taelor and Johan are monsters in combat with their special abilities, the tables turned a bit.

I thought I was getting the upper hand when I managed to kill off the Viktoria with sword/gun and Johan. However, I was not ready for Megan to get awesome flips while I pulled a bunch of low cards from my deck. Perdita got cornered on a platform by the remaining Viktoria, Taelor, and Bishop.

Bishop charged and missed with all of his attacks. Viktoria landed only one successful attack, but managed to do Moderate damage. The game ended with Taelor smashing Perdita with a Relic Hammer, and flinging her off of the plaform with a Trigger. Perdita was defeated.

May 29, 2011March 30, 2013 by Big Rich Categories: Malifaux, PaintingTags: Malifaux, Urban Combat Table Leave a comment

PAINTING SKORNE

Awhile back, I was gifted Morghoul and several Skorne Savages, a Brute, and a Shaman along with 3 Paingivers. They were free save for the shipping I paid to have them sent to me. An online contact was giving away his HORDES stuff as he was giving up gaming for religious reasons, and I scooped these up. Although the list will not be the best in the world, I’m making a small army mainly comprised of Cyclops models. The army will not be used in competative games, and will be completely for casual and fun gaming. I have three more Savages to assemble.

The crazy 35 point list ends up looking kind of like this:

Master Tormentor Morghoul

Cyclopse Brute

Cyclopse Savage

Cyclopse Shaman

Paingiver Beast Handlers (Leader and 3 Grunts)

This Savage below is converted to be holding some severed heads. I plan on adding skulls to their belts, weapons, and bases.

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I’ve started painting one of my squad of Skorne Savages. I brushed on a basecoat of black, and allowed that to dry. I then used Reaper’s Shadowed Steel over the entire model, followed up by two washes of Original Black Wonder Wash.

August 20, 2010March 30, 2013 by Big Rich Categories: PaintingTags: HORDES, PAINTING, THE HOBBY Leave a comment

ON THE TABLE

I’ve decided that I really need to get some of my Circle Orboros models assembled and painted. After not being able to use them for the HORDES: GENESIS event at Gatehouse Games in Duncansville, PA due to their painting requirement, it made me realize that I’ve got to do some work on my HORDES dudes. Gatehouse Games requires a primer coat, three colors of paint, and a fully flocked base. Otherwise, you’re not permitted to use the models to play in the store. So … time to get some stuff painted!

I’m not the best painter. I started painting in 1987. I had a few AD&D miniatures and I decided to paint them. Using a set of those plastic bristled paint brushes, and some poster paints, I did some horrible things to those little guys. At twelve years old, I tossed aside my miniatures and decided that painting was not for me.

Years later, I started playing Warhammer, then Mordheim. Afterwards, I graduated to WARMACHINE and HORDES. I started painting again, this time with the proper tools. I am getting better, and I’ve found that if I spend about 6-8 hours on a miniature that I really like … I can really do a great job. However, taking that long on a miniature is just crazy for me. I’m not going for display quality. I’m aiming at tabletop play quality. I mainly use drybrushing, and inking. I usually only use three stages of painting, yet No Quarter and White Dwarf usually have about six. I don’t use all the fancy “fading colors” or “non metallic metal” stuff, either. I’m a gamer, not an artist. But I keep working at it, and hopefully I’m getting a little better every time I sit down to paint.

My first victim on the Autopsy Table was the Blackclad Wayfarer. I really like the druid models. The pose of the Wayfarer is dramatic with his cape blowing in the wind and his hand jutting in the air powerfully. I wanted to go for a dark look to the Wayfarer, and this is how he turned out:

Yeah, he still needs some work. Maybe later on I will go back and do some highlighting and picking out of small bits. But he meets the painting requirement for playing at Gatehouse Games, and that’s al I am going for right now. Three colors … based … and out.

The next model is the Lord of the Feast. I like this guy because he reminds me of The Master of the Hunt from page 31 of the 1980AD&D Deities & Demigods book by TSR. This model was one of the first models I bought when I got into Circle Orboros. In HORDES MKI, he was pretty darn good. But now in HORDES MKII, he’s awesome. So, of course, I want to make sure he’s painted and ready to carve out some hearts on the gaming table.

And then comes the Gorax. This is actually my second Gorax. My first Gorax is called Lorax the Gorax. Yes, I have two. The model itself is not nearly as cool as the artwork in the Monsternomicon or Primal MKII, but its animus is great. So the goofy little dude is along for the ride. So this guy is Snorlax the Gorax. Mainly because he manages to sit around and do nothing for me on the table. Maybe now that he’s painted, he’ll be groovy and stuff. This model has been slightly converted. I imagined that he was chained up somewhere in the dark forests, and he managed to break free. I added chain to his wrists, and also added a tongue cut from some spare parts on the Warhammer Giant sprues.

And then I finished off my Shifting Stones, which was easy to do with some drybrushing. Simple, quick, and easy. They are nice because they can tie up charge lanes, teleport models, remove fury, and do the healing field thing. Just remember that they are ranged attack magnets and can really benefit from spells that make them stealthy.

And finally, I finished off my Kreuger the Stormwrath. I admit that I have never used him, even in one game. But I’ve been thinking that he’ll be a nice change up from playing Kaya so much, and will be really good with my Tharn Ravangers and those fancy new Skinwalkers.I had a lot of trouble with his face, but it turned out okay.

So that’s what I did on Thursday. I spent a total of six hours busting out these models. That’s not too bad for me. And any time that I can sit down and do some painting is good with me. So, I’m going to keep knocking out some of my models each day (that I can) and I will keep posting pictures of my progress.

For now … keep rollin’ sixes!

August 13, 2010February 26, 2022 by Big Rich Categories: PaintingTags: autopsy table, HORDES, THE TABLE 5 Comments

PEELING PAINT

We all know about the super cool salt technique featured in No Quarter to help simulate wear and tear on your Warjacks and structures. This is a similar technique that helps modelers and painters to create a peeling paint effect on models.

After you have assembled your model, grab a bottle of rubber cement. Use an old brush, a tooth pick, or some other wonderful tool from your work space to carefully dab the cement in places where you want the structure or model to show some wear and tear. Remember, you are looking for an effect that makes it seem that the “fresh off the selling floor” paint job has aged and damaged. Vary the thickness and coverage as much as possible. Now, take a break because you need to allow the cement to fully dry before doing anything else.

Now is a good time to listen to your favorite podcast featuring WARMACHINE and HORDES. I recommend Lost Hemisphere Radio. Or maybe even The Iron Agenda!

Okay, so now it’s time to get back to work! Go ahead and paint your model or structure as you normally would making sure to allow the paint to dry. When you finish, use your finger of choice to rub the cement from the model. If you choose to do so, you can also use a pencil eraser to remove the rubber cement. Make sure to get it all off of there, and dispose of the cement properly, especially if you have Cats or a Beagle… like I do.

And that’s it, folks. You should have a nicely weathered model with streaks of peeling paint. The silver metal will be showing through, and it will look like it’s seen better days on the battlefield. Give it a try, and let me know how it works for you.

Word to the wise: This technique is damaging for PLASTIC models as acetone , a solvent, does damage to many plastics. This nifty technique is best used on METAL, WOOD, or POLYSTONE.

Apply Common Sense (ACS) when using rubber cement, folks. Rubber cement should be used in an open area, and care needs be taken to avoid heat sources as it is highly flammable.

So anyway, that’s all I have for today. Make some time for fun today, and keep rollin’ sixes.

August 2, 2010February 1, 2014 by Big Rich Categories: PaintingTags: WARMACHINE Leave a comment

BLACK WASHING

Using a thin black wash can really bring out details in your models. It makes recessed areas more visible. Some might say it adds character to the model. You can make your own black wash by simply watering down your favorite black paint. However, Armor Wash works quite well. Use a flat brush, and don’t get fancy with the application. If the area you are washing gets too dark, you can always carefully paint over the area again, staying away from the darkened recesses. With some practice, you’ll be able to manipulate the black wash so that you can create dabs or spots that look like oil leaks, spatters, and streaks. Try it out. Let me know how things go for you.